/* Thailand Actually - field-tested destination guide.
   Layout: photo-led authority guide - mosaic hero with search, region hubs, planning tools,
   scored hotel verdicts, "checked in person" seal. Logical properties throughout (RTL /il + LTR root). */
:root{
  /* 14.10.2026: her home mockup palette - white + light turquoise, navy headings, coral buttons (replaces cream). Contrast AA checked. */
  --paper:#F6FAFB; --band:#E8F5F6; --ink:#1D2B36; --muted:#51616C; --head:#0F3D50; --line:#D2E3E7; --card:#FFFFFF;
  --deep:#0D4A57; --lagoon:#0A7A7E; --coral:#C73F24; --gold:#E39B32; --good:#1E7F55; --warn:#BE4A2C;
  --on-deep:#F1FAFB; --blush:#FDEFEB;
  --display:"Frank Ruhl Libre","David",Georgia,serif;
  --body:"Assistant","Arial Hebrew",Arial,sans-serif;
  --radius:6px; --gutter:20px; --max:1180px;
}
/* 13.10.2026: one fixed light palette. The old dark-mode switch turned text light on the cream pages (unreadable on phones in dark mode). */
:root{color-scheme:light}

*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--body);font-size:17px;line-height:1.65}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
a{color:inherit}
a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--gold);outline-offset:2px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--display);line-height:1.15;margin:0;text-wrap:balance;font-weight:700}
.wrap{max-width:var(--max);margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:var(--gutter)}
.sr{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0);white-space:nowrap}
.skip{position:absolute;inset-inline-start:-999px;top:8px;background:var(--card);padding:8px 12px;z-index:10}
.skip:focus{inset-inline-start:8px}

/* placeholders while photos are not in yet */
.ta-ph{width:100%;height:100%;min-height:120px;position:relative;
  background:linear-gradient(160deg,#9fc8bd,#2b6d69 55%,#d59c6a)}
.ta-ph span{position:absolute;bottom:10px;inset-inline-start:10px;font-size:12px;font-weight:700;background:rgba(0,0,0,.5);color:#fff;padding:3px 10px;border-radius:20px}
.ta-img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}

/* ---------- masthead (v2, white sticky bar - her mockup 14.10.2026) ---------- */
.mast{background:#fff;color:var(--ink);position:sticky;top:var(--wp-admin--admin-bar--height,0px);z-index:50;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 2px 16px rgba(13,74,87,.07)}
.mast a{text-decoration:none;color:inherit}
.mast-row{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px;padding-block:10px}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;color:var(--head)}
.brand-ico{color:var(--lagoon);display:flex}
.brand-t{display:flex;flex-direction:column;line-height:1.1}
.brand-t b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:900;font-size:26px;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.brand-t small{font-size:12.5px;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600;margin-top:2px}
.mnav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-inline-start:auto;font-weight:700;font-size:15.5px}
.mnav-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;gap:2px}
.mnav-list > li{position:relative}
.mnav-list > li > a{display:block;padding:9px 14px;border-radius:22px}
.mnav-list > li > a:hover,.mnav-list > li:focus-within > a{background:var(--band);color:var(--head)}
.has-sub > a::after{content:;display:inline-block;width:6px;height:6px;border:solid currentColor;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;transform:rotate(45deg);margin-inline-start:8px;vertical-align:3px}
.subm{display:none;position:absolute;top:100%;inset-inline-start:0;min-width:230px;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:8px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;box-shadow:0 14px 34px rgba(13,74,87,.16);z-index:60}
.has-sub:hover > .subm,.has-sub:focus-within > .subm{display:block}
.subm a{display:block;padding:8px 12px;border-radius:8px;font-weight:600}
.subm a:hover{background:var(--band);color:var(--head)}
.subm .all a{color:var(--lagoon);font-weight:800;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px 8px 0 0;margin-bottom:4px}
.hsearch{position:relative}
.hsearch summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;width:40px;height:40px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%;color:var(--head)}
.hsearch summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.hsearch summary:hover,.hsearch[open] summary{background:var(--band)}
.hsearch .search{position:absolute;inset-inline-end:0;top:calc(100% + 8px);width:min(420px,88vw);box-shadow:0 14px 34px rgba(13,74,87,.16)}
.mnav .lang{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:5px 12px;border-radius:20px;font-size:13.5px;color:var(--head)}
.mnav .lang:hover{background:var(--band)}
.nav-toggle{display:none;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-inline-start:auto;background:var(--band);color:var(--head);border:0;border-radius:22px;font:inherit;font-weight:800;padding:8px 14px;cursor:pointer}
.burger,.burger::before,.burger::after{display:block;width:18px;height:2px;background:currentColor;border-radius:2px;position:relative}
.burger::before,.burger::after{content:;position:absolute;inset-inline-start:0}
.burger::before{top:-6px}.burger::after{top:6px}
.sub{border-top:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--band)}
.sub ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:8px 0;display:flex;gap:18px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:13.5px}
@media (max-width:900px){
  .mast-row{flex-wrap:wrap}
  .nav-toggle{display:inline-flex}
  .mnav{display:none;width:100%;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;gap:6px;padding-block:6px 10px;margin:0}
  .mnav.open{display:flex}
  .mnav-list{flex-direction:column}
  .subm{display:block;position:static;box-shadow:none;border:0;padding:0 14px 6px;min-width:0}
  .has-sub > a::after{display:none}
  .hsearch summary{display:none}
  .hsearch .search{position:static;width:100%;box-shadow:none}
  .mnav .lang{align-self:flex-start}
}
@media (max-width:420px){.brand-t b{font-size:22px}.brand-t small{display:none}}

/* ---------- home mosaic ---------- */
.mosaic{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2.2fr 1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:1fr 1fr;gap:4px;height:min(78vh,640px);min-height:480px;background:var(--deep)}
.mosaic .hero{grid-column:1;grid-row:1 / span 2}
.tile{position:relative;margin:0;overflow:hidden}
.tile figcaption,.hero-cap{position:absolute;bottom:10px;inset-inline-start:10px;font-size:12px;font-weight:700;background:rgba(0,0,0,.5);color:#fff;padding:3px 10px;border-radius:20px}
.mosaic .t1{grid-column:2;grid-row:1}.mosaic .t2{grid-column:3;grid-row:1}
.mosaic .t3{grid-column:2;grid-row:2}.mosaic .t4{grid-column:3;grid-row:2}
.t1 .ta-ph{background:linear-gradient(200deg,#e2b17a,#7d8f6a 45%,#1d5a57)}
.t2 .ta-ph{background:linear-gradient(180deg,#9ed6d0,#3c9a92 55%,#e8d8b5)}
.t3 .ta-ph{background:linear-gradient(170deg,#7aa98f,#245b55 60%,#0f3433)}
.t4 .ta-ph{background:linear-gradient(160deg,#f0b46a,#c4573a 55%,#3a1f1a)}
.hero{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff;overflow:hidden;background:#1f6664}
.hero .hero-bg{position:absolute;inset:0}
.hero .ta-ph{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(170deg,#6fb3a8 0%,#1f6664 50%,#0f3433 100%)}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(175deg,rgba(0,0,0,0) 30%,rgba(0,0,0,.6) 100%);pointer-events:none}
.hero-cap{top:14px;bottom:auto;z-index:2}
.hero-in{position:relative;z-index:2;padding:40px 36px;width:100%}
.hero h1{font-size:clamp(34px,5.4vw,62px);font-weight:900;max-width:16ch}
.hero p{font-size:18px;max-width:54ch;opacity:.93;margin:12px 0 22px}
@media (max-width:920px){
  .mosaic{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:auto 150px 150px;height:auto;min-height:0}
  .mosaic .hero{grid-column:1 / span 2;grid-row:1;min-height:440px}
  .mosaic .t1{grid-column:1;grid-row:2}.mosaic .t2{grid-column:2;grid-row:2}
  .mosaic .t3{grid-column:1;grid-row:3}.mosaic .t4{grid-column:2;grid-row:3}
}
@media (max-width:520px){.hero-in{padding:28px 18px}}

form.search{display:flex;max-width:620px;background:#fff;border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line)}
form.search input{flex:1;border:0;font:inherit;font-size:16px;padding:14px 16px;color:var(--ink);background:#fff;min-width:0}
form.search button{border:0;background:var(--coral);color:#fff;font:inherit;font-weight:800;padding:0 22px;cursor:pointer}

/* ---------- trust bar ---------- */
.trust{background:var(--card);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.trust-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:16px;padding-block:18px}
.trust-row div{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px}
.trust b{font-family:var(--display);font-size:21px;color:var(--lagoon)}
.trust span{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:920px){.trust-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}

/* ---------- sections + grids ---------- */
.sec{padding-block:36px}
.sh{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:12px;margin-bottom:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:8px}
.sh h2{font-size:30px}
.sh a{color:var(--lagoon);font-weight:700;text-decoration:none;font-size:15px}
.grid-1{display:grid;gap:20px}
.grid-2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:22px}
.grid-3{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:20px}
@media (max-width:920px){.grid-3{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.grid-2{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
@media (max-width:560px){.grid-3{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* place card */
.pcard{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.pcard-img{display:block;aspect-ratio:16/10;overflow:hidden}
.pcard-b{padding:16px 18px 18px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;flex:1}
.pcard h3{font-size:24px}
.pcard h3 a{text-decoration:none}
.pcard h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}
.pcard p{margin:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:15.5px}
.chips{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px}
.chips a{display:inline-block;font-size:13.5px;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:3px 10px;border-radius:20px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}
.chips a:hover{border-color:var(--lagoon);color:var(--lagoon)}

/* tools */
.tools{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:16px}
.tool{border-top:4px solid var(--lagoon);background:var(--card);padding:16px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
.tool:nth-child(2){border-color:var(--coral)}.tool:nth-child(3){border-color:var(--gold)}.tool:nth-child(4){border-color:var(--deep)}
.tool h3{font-size:19px}
.tool h3 a{text-decoration:none}
.tool p{margin:0;font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:920px){.tools{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media (max-width:520px){.tools{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* hotel card */
.hcard{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);display:grid;grid-template-columns:210px 1fr;overflow:hidden}
.hcard-img{display:block;min-height:100%;overflow:hidden}
.hcard-img .ta-ph{min-height:180px}
.hcard-b{padding:16px 18px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;min-width:0}
.loc{font-size:13px;color:var(--lagoon);font-weight:800;letter-spacing:.04em}
.hcard h3{font-size:22px}
.hcard h3 a{text-decoration:none}
.seal{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;font-size:12.5px;font-weight:800;color:var(--deep);border:1.5px solid var(--deep);padding:2px 9px;border-radius:3px;letter-spacing:.04em;width:fit-content;background:var(--card)}
.v{font-family:var(--display);font-size:18px;padding:8px 12px;border-inline-start:4px solid var(--good);background:var(--band)}
.v-mixed{border-color:var(--gold)}.v-bad{border-color:var(--warn)}
.score{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:4px 12px;font-size:14.5px;margin:0}
.score dt{color:var(--muted);font-weight:700}
.score dd{margin:0}
.s-g{color:var(--good);font-weight:700}.s-w{color:var(--warn);font-weight:700}
.hcard-foot{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:10px;font-size:13.5px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:auto;flex-wrap:wrap}
.hcard-foot a{color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:6px 12px;border-radius:3px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:800}
@media (max-width:560px){.hcard{grid-template-columns:1fr}.hcard-img{aspect-ratio:16/10}}

/* method */
.method{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 2fr;gap:28px;align-items:start;background:var(--band);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:28px}
.method h2{font-size:28px}
.method ol{margin:0;padding-inline-start:20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}
.byline{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center;margin-top:14px}
.byline .avatar,.byline .ta-ph{width:56px;height:56px;min-height:0;border-radius:50%;flex:none;object-fit:cover}
.byline p{margin:0;font-size:14.5px;color:var(--muted)}
.byline b{color:var(--ink)}
@media (max-width:920px){.method{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* ---------- inner pages ---------- */
.crumbs ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:14px 0 0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.crumbs li:not(:last-child)::after{content:"›";margin-inline-start:6px;opacity:.6}
.crumbs a{text-decoration:none}
.crumbs a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.phead{padding-block:18px 10px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}
.phead h1{font-size:clamp(32px,4.6vw,52px);font-weight:900}
.lead{font-size:19px;color:var(--muted);max-width:60ch;margin:0}
.meta{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.pimg{margin:10px 0 0;border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:16/8}
.pimg figcaption{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:6px}

.layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 330px;gap:40px;align-items:start;padding-block:22px 40px}
.layout-single{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,760px)}
.main{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:30px;min-width:0}
.rail{position:sticky;top:16px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:16px}
@media (max-width:980px){.layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.rail{position:static}}
.box{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:18px}
.box h3{font-size:19px;margin-bottom:10px}
.links{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.links a{display:block;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-decoration:none;font-weight:600}
.links li:last-child a{border-bottom:0}
.links a:hover{color:var(--lagoon)}

/* long-form text */
.prose{font-size:17.5px;max-width:72ch}
.prose > *{margin-block:0 1em}
.prose h2{font-size:30px;margin-top:1.4em;margin-bottom:.5em}
.prose h3{font-size:23px;margin-top:1.2em;margin-bottom:.4em}
.prose img,.prose figure{border-radius:var(--radius)}
.prose figure{margin-inline:0}
.prose figcaption{font-size:13.5px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:6px}
.prose a{color:var(--lagoon);text-underline-offset:3px}
.prose blockquote{font-family:var(--display);font-size:24px;line-height:1.35;border-inline-start:4px solid var(--coral);padding:4px 18px;margin-inline:0}
.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-inline-start:22px}
.prose table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:15.5px}
.prose th,.prose td{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:8px;text-align:start}
.prose .wp-block-table{overflow-x:auto}

/* ---------- hotel page ---------- */
.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:230px 230px;gap:4px;border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;margin-top:14px;position:relative}
.gallery .g{display:block;overflow:hidden;position:relative}
.gallery .g:first-child{grid-row:1 / span 2}
.gallery.g-1{grid-template-columns:1fr;grid-template-rows:440px}
.gallery.g-2{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:440px}
.gallery.g-2 .g:first-child,.gallery.g-1 .g:first-child{grid-row:auto}
.gallery.g-3{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr}
.gallery.g-4 .g:nth-child(4){grid-column:2 / span 2}
.g-more{position:absolute;bottom:10px;inset-inline-end:10px;background:rgba(0,0,0,.6);color:#fff;font-size:13px;font-weight:800;padding:4px 12px;border-radius:20px}
@media (max-width:700px){.gallery,.gallery.g-2,.gallery.g-3{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:260px 140px}.gallery .g:first-child{grid-column:1 / span 2;grid-row:1}.gallery .g:nth-child(n+4){display:none}.gallery.g-1{grid-template-columns:1fr;grid-template-rows:260px}.gallery.g-1 .g:first-child{grid-column:1}}

.titleblock{padding-block:22px 4px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}
.titleblock h1{font-size:clamp(32px,4.4vw,48px);font-weight:900}

.verdict{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-top:5px solid var(--good);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:22px 24px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:14px}
.verdict-mixed{border-top-color:var(--gold)}.verdict-bad{border-top-color:var(--warn)}
.verdict .k{font-size:12.5px;letter-spacing:.08em;font-weight:800;color:var(--muted)}
.verdict h2{font-size:28px}
.fit{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px}
.fit h3{font-family:var(--body);font-size:15px;font-weight:800;margin-bottom:6px}
.fit ul{margin:0;padding-inline-start:18px;font-size:16px}
.fit .yes h3{color:var(--good)}.fit .no h3{color:var(--warn)}
.scores{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(110px,1fr));gap:10px}
.sc{background:var(--band);border-radius:4px;padding:10px;text-align:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px}
.sc b{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.sc span{font-family:var(--display);font-size:17px;font-weight:700}
.sc-g span{color:var(--good)}.sc-w span{color:var(--warn)}
@media (max-width:560px){.fit{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

.again{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px 20px}
.ag-q{font-family:var(--display);font-size:22px;font-weight:700}
.ag-a{font-family:var(--display);font-size:22px;font-weight:900;padding:2px 18px;border-radius:30px;color:#fff;background:var(--good)}
.ag-yesbut{background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink)}.ag-no{background:var(--warn)}

.move{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}
.mv-h{font-size:13px;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--muted)}
.mv-row{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.mv{font-size:15px;font-weight:700;padding:6px 12px;border-radius:4px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card)}
.mv.on{border-color:var(--good)}
.mv.off{color:var(--muted);text-decoration:line-through;text-decoration-thickness:1px}

.untold{background:var(--deep);color:var(--on-deep);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:24px 26px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:14px}
.ut-h span{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.12em;font-weight:800;color:var(--gold)}
.untold h2{font-size:28px;color:#fff;margin-top:4px}
.untold ul{margin:0;padding-inline-start:20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;font-size:17px}
.untold b{color:#fff}
.levels{display:flex;gap:6px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:12.5px;padding-top:10px;border-top:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.15)}
.lv{padding:2px 10px;border-radius:20px;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.35);opacity:.6}
.lv.on{opacity:1;background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);border-color:var(--gold);font-weight:800}

.faq h2{font-size:28px;margin-bottom:6px}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:12px}
.faq summary{font-weight:800;cursor:pointer;font-size:17px}
.faq details p{margin:8px 0 0;color:var(--muted)}

.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:6px 12px;margin:0;font-size:15px}
.facts dt{color:var(--muted);font-weight:700}
.facts dd{margin:0}
.book{display:block;text-align:center;background:var(--coral);color:#fff;font-weight:800;padding:12px;border-radius:4px;text-decoration:none;margin-top:12px}
.book.alt{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border:1.5px solid var(--ink)}
.tip{background:var(--deep);color:var(--on-deep);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:18px;font-size:15.5px}
.tip b{display:block;font-family:var(--display);font-size:18px;margin-bottom:4px;color:var(--gold)}

/* lightbox */
.lb{position:fixed;inset:0;background:rgba(10,8,6,.92);display:grid;place-items:center;z-index:50;padding:20px}
.lb img{max-height:88vh;width:auto;border-radius:4px}
.lb button{position:absolute;top:calc(14px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));inset-inline-end:14px;background:#fff;border:0;border-radius:3px;padding:6px 12px;font:inherit;font-weight:800;cursor:pointer}

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.foot{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:30px;padding-block:28px 22px;color:var(--muted);font-size:14.5px;background:var(--card)}
.foot-row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.foot-brand{max-width:60ch}
.foot-brand b{font-family:var(--display);font-size:22px;color:var(--ink)}
.foot-brand p{margin:6px 0 0}
.foot-nav ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.foot-nav a{text-decoration:none}
.foot-copy{padding-top:16px;font-size:13px}

.nav-links{display:flex;gap:10px;justify-content:center;padding-block:10px}
.nav-links .page-numbers{padding:4px 10px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;text-decoration:none}
.nav-links .current{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{scroll-behavior:auto!important;transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}

/* 13.10.2026: article photos - portraits no taller than a screen; source notes */
.prose figure img{max-height:620px;width:auto;max-width:100%}
.prose .src-note{font-size:14.5px;color:var(--muted);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:12px}

/* ---------- Article layout v2 (13.10.2026, Michal's brief) ---------- */
.phead h1{font-size:clamp(28px,4vw,46px)}
.layout.article{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 240px;gap:36px}
.article .prose{max-width:none;font-size:18px;line-height:1.75}
.article .prose > *:not(figure):not(.ad-slot):not(.fig-pair){max-width:720px}
.article .prose h2{font-size:33px;margin-top:2.1em;margin-bottom:.55em;padding-top:18px;position:relative}
.article .prose h2::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:0;inset-inline-start:0;width:56px;height:3px;background:var(--gold)}
.article .prose h3{font-size:24px;margin-top:1.5em}
.article .prose h4{font-size:19px;margin-top:1.2em;margin-bottom:.3em}
.article .prose figure{width:100%;margin:30px 0}
.article .prose figure img{width:100%;max-height:none;height:auto;border-radius:var(--radius)}
.article .prose figure.is-portrait{float:right;width:56%;margin:6px 0 22px;margin-inline-start:30px}
.article .prose .fig-pair{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:14px;clear:both;margin:32px 0;max-width:none}
.article .prose .fig-pair figure,html[dir="rtl"] .article .prose .fig-pair figure{float:none;width:auto;margin:0}
html[dir="rtl"] .article .prose figure.is-portrait{float:left}
.article .prose ul,.article .prose .tip,.article .prose .src-note{overflow:hidden}
.article .prose .src-note{clear:both}
.article .main::after{content:"";display:block;clear:both}
.rail-back{display:block;margin-top:14px;padding-top:12px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);font-weight:800;text-decoration:none;color:var(--lagoon)}
.ad-slot{text-align:center}
.ad-inline{clear:both;margin:34px 0}
.more-places{padding-block:10px 50px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.more-places h2{font-size:30px;margin:28px 0 18px;position:relative;padding-top:16px}
.more-places h2::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:0;inset-inline-start:0;width:56px;height:3px;background:var(--gold)}
.mp-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(200px,1fr));gap:14px}
.mp-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:inherit}
.mp-img{display:block;aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden}
.mp-card b{font-family:var(--display);font-size:20px;padding:12px 14px 2px}
.mp-card span:last-child:not(.mp-img){font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);padding:0 14px 14px;line-height:1.4}
.mp-card:hover b{color:var(--lagoon)}
.mp-guide b{padding-bottom:14px}
@media (max-width:980px){.layout.article{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
@media (max-width:640px){.article .prose figure.is-portrait,html[dir="rtl"] .article .prose figure.is-portrait{float:none;width:100%;margin-inline-start:0}.article .prose .fig-pair{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:14px}.article .prose h2{font-size:27px}.mp-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}

/* ---------- Readability + mobile spacing (13.10.2026, Michal's mobile review) ---------- */
.phead h1,.prose h2,.prose h3,.prose h4,.more-places h2{color:var(--head)}
.prose{color:var(--ink)}
.prose figcaption{font-size:14.5px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:8px}
.prose figure figcaption{line-height:1.45}
@media (max-width:700px){
  .article .prose,.prose{font-size:17.5px;line-height:1.7}
  .prose > *{margin-block:0 18px}
  .prose h2,.article .prose h2{font-size:29px;margin-top:44px;margin-bottom:18px;padding-top:14px}
  .prose h3,.article .prose h3{font-size:23px;margin-top:30px;margin-bottom:12px}
  .prose h4,.article .prose h4{margin-top:22px;margin-bottom:8px}
  .article .prose figure,.prose figure{margin:24px 0}
  .layout,.layout.article{padding-block:14px 30px;gap:30px}
  .phead{padding-block:12px 6px}
  .more-places{padding-block:6px 36px}
  .more-places h2{font-size:27px;margin:22px 0 14px}
  .mp-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .mp-card{flex-direction:row;align-items:stretch}
  .mp-card .mp-img{flex:0 0 38%;aspect-ratio:auto;min-height:110px}
  .mp-card > b{align-self:center}
}
/* her logo in the header (14.10.2026) */
.brand-img{display:block;line-height:0}
.brand-logo{height:74px;width:auto;max-width:none;display:block}
@media (max-width:900px){.brand-logo{height:54px}}
@media (max-width:420px){.brand-logo{height:46px}}